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How to Grow Watermelon

Posted by Viva La Vida on Rabu, 07 Januari 2015 Label:
Watermelon is one of the fruits that are quite easy to Cultivated. Why is that? Since it is very easy to grow in the plains of land that has a height 0-1000 m asl. So for Watermelon Cultivation can be done in lowland and highland.

Watermelon in addition to easy cultivation is also one of the alternative you are looking for additional income which is very promising. Because many like this one fruit, the more market demand soared. And it is an opportunity that can be used to increase revenue earlier. There is a story that originally Growing Watermelon as a sideline, but because the results are fairly basic at the left end job and focus on this business.

1. Selection of Land

Good soil for maximum results, should contain soil acidity pH 5.5 to 6.5 although this plant can be grown in peat though. Most importantly also the soil is fertile and rich in organic matter. Then clean and plow (can be with hoe), then create a raised bed with a length of 12-15 m, width of 1.5-2 m, continue to make the planting hole the size of 40x40x30 cm with a distance of 1-1.5 m. Put the basic fertilizer into the planting hole in them:
<>  4 kg of manure
<>  28 grams of fertilizer DS
<>  22 grams of fertilizer ZK
<>  15 grams ZA

2. Breeding

Prior to planting the seeds of course we prepare seed seeding of course. The trick germinating seeds in plastic pots or polybags with planting medium soil and manure. penyemaiannya should be slightly apart so that facilitate the growth of their own seeds previously soaked in 1 liter of water in the mix 1 tablespoon of the hormone (Atronik, Menedael, Abitonik), 1 tablespoon Feres fungicide (anti-fungal), 0.5 teaspoon pressed bactericidal for 20-30 minutes.

3. Planting

After the plants have leaves 2 pieces or 4 weeks old, then the seeds are ready for planting in the land already prepared above using monoculture. But one week before planting did land perforation within 20-30 cm from the edge to a depth of 8-10 cm, then flood the water until it is full and let it sink in. In addition it should also be done in order to facilitate the release polybag soaking for 5-10 minutes and interfere in the marinade for immunization drugs seedlings.
water melon

4. Maintenance of Plant

There are several stages of general maintenance is given, among others:
Watering the newly planted crops in the land is very important, when watering through the channels of the beds, the water must be taken not to overflow flooded seedbed surface.

Weeding is done on watermelon plants must be careful, lest the primary and secondary stem is cut or damaged. The weeding process can be carried out between 3-4 times during the growing season.

Pembubunan ie membubun the ground so that the roots absorb food maximally and followed with perempelan process, namely the process of sorting young shoots to be disposed of are useless and will inhibit the growth of watermelon plant.

Thinning and replanting the watermelon crop is done after the age of 3-5 days, when the late crop growth and will lead to the death of the plant then immediately replace it with new seedlings. And do thinning with 2-3 leaves of plants alone.

Fertilization can be given fertilizer P and K as well as the third part of fertilizer N is applied to the base fertilizer. P and K fertilizer mixture inserted into the planting hole as deep as 5-8 cm and 5-8 cm from seed so far. If you use fertilizer DS and ZK, then each hole is given only 28 grams and 22 grams of fertilizer DS ZK fertilizer. Diberika first fertilizer application during the crop was planted, a second application of fertilizer given to plants already as high as 1 m, while the third fertilizer application after the crop has been fruitful of chicken eggs.

5. Harvesting

Prior to describe the process of harvesting, you should consider conception. Recommended at each branch maintained only 1 piece only, so the tree will produce fruit 3-4. Why? In order for the growth of the fruit can be maximized. Then when it's grown fruit buds then immediately make the base of the dry straw to avoid splashing rain can cause rot.

For their harvest process itself usually farmers have their own way. In what sense can be harvested when it is up to the farmers themselves. If it is already achieving decent size harvest the crop immediately. But usually he harvests the crop standard one hectare yield of 8-10 tons.

How to Easily Grow Shallots

Posted by Viva La Vida on Selasa, 06 Januari 2015 Label:
Red onion (Allium ascalonicum) is a seasonal horticultural crops that have high economic value. But at certain moments are often flooded production so the price plummeted. Exacerbated by the government's import policies applied are often exacerbate the fall of onion prices in the market.

To avoid price fluctuations very detrimental to farmers, should attempt to do the onion cultivation outside of the season. Along with restrictions on farming activities in the peak seasons.

Onion cultivation requires sun shines more than 12 hours a day. This plant is suitable to be cultivated in the lowlands with a height of 0 to 900 meters above sea level. The optimum temperature for development of onion plants ranges from 25-32 degrees Celsius. While the desired acidity of the soil around pH 5.6 to 7.

This time alamtani trying to decipher the technical steps that need to be prepared to undertake the cultivation of onion. How to grow onions is extracted from the experience of the onion farmers in Bradford, Central Java. Berebes is one of the largest centers of onion cultivation in Indonesia.
How to Easily Grow Shallots

Onion Seeds

Seed varieties for cultivation of onion pretty much. There are local to seed imported hybrid seeds. There is a form of seed from the seed, there is also a form of tubers. Most onion cultivation in production centers use as seed tubers.

Good onion seeds harvested tubers derived from the old, more than 80 days to 100 days in the lowlands and highlands. Good onion seeds have saved at least 2-3 months. Seed size approximately 1.5-2 cm with a nice shape, no defects, shiny dark red.

The need for the cultivation of onion seed werah depending on the variety, size and spacing of seeds. For a spacing of 20 × 20 with a weight of 5 grams tuber takes about 1.4 tons of seed per hectare. For the same weight with a spacing of 15 × 15 takes 2.4 tons per hectare. When the weight of the smaller bulbs, tubers per hectare needs even less.

Tillage and planting

Land made beds with a width of 1-1.2 meters, height of 20-30 cm and length sesusai with garden conditions. The distance between beds of 50 cm, as well as serve 50 cm deep trench. Hoe beds as deep as 20 cm, made of loose soil. The shape of the surface or the top of the embankment flat, not curved.

Add lime or dolomite as much as 1-1.5 tonnes per hectare when the acidity of less than pH 5.6. The addition of lime at least be given two weeks before planting.

Use 15-20 compost or manure as fertilizer base. Sprinkle the fertilizer on the beds and stir until evenly ground. Can also be added urea, ZA, SP-36 and KCL by 47 kg, 100 kg, 311 kg and 56 kg per hectare. Mixed fertilizers before applied. Let stand for one week before planting beds.

Prepare seeds or onion bulbs are ready for planting. If the age of the tubers was less than 2 months, do pemogesan first. Pemogesan is cutting the end of the tuber, about 0.5 cm. Its function is to break the dormancy period and accelerate the growth of plants.

Spacing for onion cultivation in the dry season is compacted to 15 × 15 cm. While the rainy season at least made up to 20 × 20 cm. Onion seeds were planted in a way to immerse all parts bulbs into the ground.

Care onion cultivation

Watering in onion cultivation should be done twice a day every morning and afternoon. At least until the 10-day-old plants. After that, the frequency of watering can be reduced to once a day.

Supplementary fertilization is given after onion plants 2 weeks old. Type consists of a mixture of urea fertilizer, ZA, and KCl mix evenly. The composition of each fertilizer as much as 93 kg, 200 kg and 112 kg per hectare. Fertilization subsequent aftershocks given on week 5 with the composition of urea, ZA, KCl as much as 47 kg, 100 kg, 56 kg per hectare.

Fertilization is given to make the kerf in addition to the plant.
Weeding is usually done twice in one growing season. To save money, do weeding in conjunction with the provision of supplementary fertilizer. However, if the weed attacks intensified, weeding done immediately without waiting for the provision of supplementary fertilizer.

Pest and disease control

Onion cultivation has many types of pests and diseases. However, the most frequently attacked in the production centers are pest caterpillars and wilt.

Pests caterpillar (Spodoptera sp.) Attack the leaves, the symptoms are visible white spots on the leaves. When the leaves in binoculars to look like a caterpillar bites. These pests dealt with manual collection, caterpillars and eggs are taken to be destroyed. Can also use the sex pheromone traps, use as many as 40 units per hectare. When the attacks intensified, more than 5% damage per clump of leaves, spray with insecticidal active ingredient klorfirifos.

Fusarium wilt, caused by the fungus. The symptoms such as leaf yellowing and twisted. The base of the stem rot. Handling by depriving plants die then burn it. Spraying can use fungsidia.

Harvest onion cultivation

The characteristics of onion cultivation 60-70% ready to harvest when the leaves have started to fall. Or, do random checks bulbs. Especially for seeding bulbs, the level of lodging must achieve more than 90%.

Onion cultivation usually can be harvested after 55-70 days after planting. Productivity onion dangat vary depending on soil conditions, climate, weather and varieties. In Indonesia, the productivity of onion cultivation ranges from 3-12 tons per hectare with a national average of 9.47 tons per hectare.

Onion bulbs that have been harvested must be dried first. Drying drying can take up to 7-14 days. The reversal was done every 2-3 days. Onions are dry, moisture content 85%, ready to be stored or sold.

How to grow tomatoes in a polybag

Posted by Viva La Vida on Label:
Tomatoes are classified as vegetables, although having the structure fruit. This plant can grow well in lowland and high ranging from 0-1500 meters above sea level, depending on the variety. Tomato plants require soil that is fertile and loose, with a pH of about 5.5 to 7.

In the wild tomato shaped like a clump of trees, their height can reach a height of 3 meters. But after a cultivated plant height is not more than 2 meters and are usually supported by stakes or rope to hold against buckling.

Tomato plants can grow well in a variety of media such as open land, hydroponics, and media vertikultur garden pots or polybags. On this occasion we will elaborate on how to grow tomatoes in a polybag. If you want to know the large-scale cultivation of tomatoes in open field tomato cultivation read a general guide.

The selection of plants

In general, people distinguish tomatoes of fruit shape. There are four classes of tomatoes that many in the market namely, (1) Tomato fruit or granola tomatoes, rounded shape with a flat base (2) Tomato gondol, oval shape is used as a raw material sauce, (3) Tomato vegetable, it feels a little hard teskturnya wry, (4) cherry tomatoes, a small sweet sour. 

How to grow tomatoes in a polybag not difficult. The first step select the type of tomato and varieties will be planted. Adjust the location where the cultivation of tomato varieties will be selected, especially for climatic conditions and altitude.

For maximum results, use improved seed from a trusted source. Tomato seeds of various varieties can be found in farm shops. Information about the properties of plants can be found on a label on the seed package.

How to grow tomatoes in a polybag

Seeding Tomatoes

How to grow tomatoes in a polybag nursery should go through the stage first. Seed must be sown in seed into plant seeds. This step is necessary because the seed which grows require different treatments with plants that have grown large.

Prepare a seedbed and the media in advance. Select a seedbed that is protected from rain and direct sunlight. Media seedbed can vary, please read how to make media for horticultural nursery.

The shape can be a seedbed nursery, nursery shelves, or polybag seedlings.
For the nursery beds, create an array above the beds to a depth of 1 cm and 5 cm spacing between lines. Then planting tomato seeds in each array with a distance of 3 cm, closed surface and flush taste.

For nursery use ploybag, polybag with media contents nursery. If no one can use the polybag nursery bags of leaves (bekong). Then immerse tomato seeds 1 cm deep into the medium. Then cover the surface and flush taste. Each polybag quite filled one seed.

Once the seeds are planted, do the watering every 2 times a day with a soft hype. Be careful when watering, not to damage the surface of the nursery.

Additional fertilization can be given after two weeks with an organic liquid fertilizer, compost or NPK. Another treatment that should be done is weeding. Do not let weeds grow in the nursery area. Seedlings of tomato plants ready to be moved from a nursery into a polybag after 30 days or already have at least 5 leaves.

Transplanting Tomatoes

Before the seedlings are transferred, prepare the planting medium and polybag. Fill in the poly bag with soil, rice husk, and compost in the ratio 2: 1: 1. For more details see how to create a planting medium for a polybag.

There are two ways to grow tomatoes from a nursery into a polybag. First, remove the seeds with revoked. The trick, flush with water so that seedbed planting media become soft. Then remove the plants with care not to drop out or damaged plant roots. Then enter the plant is perpendicular to the planting hole is in the polybag. Roots should be upright position not to bent or folded. Adjust the depth of the planting hole according to the length of the roots.

Second, move the seedlings to be played. The trick tomato plants raised by the media that is around. For seeds of beds, pry plant 10 cm deep with a shovel or hand. Then lift and move along with the soil.

For seedlings in polybag nursery, tear or pull the plastic polybag nursery then moved along the ground into a bigger polybag. Polybag seedlings of plastic can be used repeatedly.

Maintenance and Care

Maintenance of tomato plants in a poly bag or pot is relatively easy. Plant health is more controlled as to avoid the spread of disease through the roots. Keep the planting medium is not too dry. Flush at least 2 times a day, but do not be too wet to avoid root rot.

Unplug weeds contained in polybags regularly. If there are plants that wilt or die, unplug immediately and dispose of media cropping so as not to infect other plants. Another treatment that is required is pruning shoots and giving a stake as the support of the plant.

Fertilizer plant after one week with compost as a handheld for each polybag. Perform the addition of compost every month, or if the plant looks less fertile. When the plants will bear fruit or fruit can be added fertilizer liquid organic fertilizer.

Pests and tomato plants peyakit quite a lot. When seen no pests, pest take manually. Discard damaged leaves or stems are exposed to pests. Spraying should be done when absolutely necessary. To be safe for health and the environment using a more natural organic pesticide. Please read how to make organic pesticides.

Harvesting

Tomato plants can be harvested in a poly bag after 3 months, depending on the variety. Criteria tomatoes ready for harvest is that changes color from green to yellow-brass or leaf edges look dry and yellow stem. Picking is done on mature fruit alone.

Tomato fruit is not ripe simultaneously. Do plucking every 2-3 days, do not be too tight to avoid crop damage. Picking the best time in the morning and afternoon, when the sun is not too hot. Similarly, a brief description of the quiet way to grow tomatoes in a polybag.

How to grow chillies in a polybag

Posted by Viva La Vida on Senin, 05 Januari 2015 Label:
Chili is one of the agricultural commodities whose prices fluctuate widely. Especially before major holidays such as Eid, the price of chili is definitely soaring. It is the lure people to grow chillies, whether for sale or just for your own inventory. Unfortunately for those who live in urban availability of arable land is very limited. But this can be circumvented by planting chillies in pots or polybags.
How to grow chillies in pots or polybags pretty easy to do.

Chilli plant can be done either in the highlands and the lowlands. In general plant chilies can be done at an altitude of 0-2000 meters above sea level. The optimal temperature for chilli plants exist in the range of 24-27oC, but still can withstand temperatures over it. The properties depend on the type of chilli varieties.

One type of chili that is suitable for planting in the garden is kerting chili. This type is relatively more resistant to tropical climate and spicy taste much favored in the market. Here we describe how to grow chillies curling in a polybag.

How to grow chillies in a polybag

Selection of seed
In the market many different varieties of chilli curly, ranging from hybrid to local varieties. How to plant a local chili and hybrids do not have a significant difference. Only a few hybrid chilli recommended products treated with certain drugs. Many hybrid varieties imported from Taiwan and Thailand, while the local variety widely grown in Apex, Holy, until Tanah Karo, North Sumatra.

Currently there are local varieties selection result, productivity is better than local varieties without selection. The seeds are sold in cans like slap produced Sang Hyang Sri. From a technical standpoint, how to grow chillies local curling simpler and anti complicated than how to plant hybrid chili. More adaptive local chili with chili kondidi than hybrid environment. It's just that productivity is still less than the hybrid.
seeding

How to grow chillies in polybag should not be done directly from the seed or seed. First of all chilli seeds should be sown in advance. The seeding process for selecting the growth of the seed point, separating the seeds that grow stunted, deformed or diseased. In addition, to wait until enough readiness resistant seedlings are planted in a bigger place.

Polybag nursery can be a small size (8 × 9 cm), banana leaf, tray (tray) nursery, or a plot of land. To see more details please read how to create a media hotbed. The most economical way is to prepare a plot of land for nursery media.

Create plot of land with sufficient size, mix the compost with the soil and mix until blended. Granular soil is made as smooth as possible so that the roots can penetrate easily. Create a plot of the thickness of 5-10 cm, above create an array with a distance of 10 cm.

Enter chilli seeds in the bolt with a distance of 7.5 cm and then flush to wet the soil and cover with dust or soil. After that, cover with wet burlap sacks for 3-4 days, keep that remain wet burlap sack. On the 4th day of the seedlings will emerge from the soil surface, then open the sack. Should map the ditudungi with transparent plastic to protect young seedlings chilli from overheating and direct rain water spray. Chilli ready to be moved into a big polybag after 3-4 weeks old, or plants already have 3-4 leaves.

Preparation of planting medium
Select polybag size above 30 cm, so that the planting medium strong enough to support the growth of green chilli plants. Besides polybag, can also be used pots of plastics, cement, soil, or ceramic. Or you can also use containers that are not used anymore former, give the holes on the bottom of the container for drainage.

How to grow chillies in a polybag could use a planting medium from a mixture of soil, compost, manure, rice husk, rice husk, and others. Please read how to make a planting medium polybag for more detail.

Some examples include the planting medium composition (1) Mixed soil with compost with composition 2: 1, (2) Mixed soil, manure, and rice husk with composition 1: 1: 1, or (3) A mixture of soil and manure with composition of 2: 1. When using manure, you should select a fertilizer that has matured. See the type and characteristics of manure.

Create a planting medium as smooth as possible by sift. Mix about 3 tablespoons of NPK in each polybag. Stir until the mixture is completely blended. Coat the inside polybag with coconut husk, broken tile, or fractional styrofoam. Point so that water does not inundate the root zone of plants.

Transplanting seedlings
Once the plant seeds and planting medium are ready, remove the seeds from the chilli plant nursery into a polybag. Perform this work in the morning or late afternoon, when the sun is not too hot to avoid stress on the plant.

Do transplanting with caution, lest damage to the plant roots. Make the planting hole at a depth of 5-7 cm polybag. If done on a polybag nursery or banana leaves, banana leaves dislodged polybag and then enter all the land of the nursery into the planting hole. If the nursery is done in the above plot of land or a tray, remove the soil attached to the roots and enter into the planting hole.

Maintenance and care
Fertilization, provide additional fertilization with NPK dose of one tablespoon per polybag each month. Or if you want to grow organically chilli, instead spray a liquid organic fertilizer during the growth of leaves and fruit growth. Add a lump of compost or manure goat when plants would bear fruit.

Watering, chilli plants should be watered at least 3 days. If the sun was shining, flush the plants every day.
Watering, after the chilli plants grow about 20 cm, provide bamboo stake. Watering is useful to sustain the plants to stand upright.

Revocation, young shoots that grow in axillary should be eliminated (removed). Revocation begins on the 20th day after planting, the revocation is usually done three times until the formation of a branch. Point for the plants to grow laterally when the trunk is not too strong sustain.

Pests and diseases, pesticide use should only be done if the plant looks pests or illness. When it seems there is a white pest spray with Pesticides, if it appears there will be a caterpillar spray with insecticide to taste, if visible mildew fungicide use. To cultivate organic cayenne use natural pesticides, please look at how to create an organic pesticide.

Harvesting
Age chili from start planting until harvest varies depending on the varieties and the environment. The best harvest time is when the fruit is fully red yet, there is still the green line. Fruits like this already in optimal weight and chilies can still hold 2-3 days before sold by vendors in the market. Time of harvest should be done in the morning after the dew to dry. Avoid harvest time at night and during the day.

This tutorial how to grow chillies applied to the small-scale farming or yards. Can be applied also to agricultural or urban farming vertikultur. Hope it is useful.

Choosing and Planting Perennials

Posted by Viva La Vida on Senin, 29 Desember 2014 Label:
If you’ve been growing a vegetable garden for a while, you might be feeling slightly disgruntled at how plain it is to look at. I too began my gardening career with a vegetable garden, but I decided that it wasn’t quite as pleasing to look at as I would have liked. I heard from a friend that the use of perennial flowers could be a great way to liven up my garden without adding any extra work for me.

Perennial flowers are strong, local flowers that come back every year without having to replant or do any extra work. During their off seasons, the flowers and stems die back and you can hardly even tell the plant is there (rather than just dying and looking like hideous brown clumps in your garden). When it’s time to bloom, entirely new flowers shoot up where the old ones were.

Before deciding whether to put in perennials or not, you need to make sure that your soil has proper drainage. If the water stays saturated for long periods of time, you should build a raised bed. To test, dig a hole and fill it with water. Wait a day, and then fill it with water again. All traces of water should be gone within 10 hours. If the hole isn’t completely dry, you will need to build a raised bed.

Choosing and Planting Perennials

Picking your perennials can be a complicated process. The goal should be to have them flowering as much as possible during the year, so you should create an outline of the year. Research the different types of flower you want, and create a timeline of flowering. If you plan it right, you can have a different type of flower blooming at any point in the year. Getting just the right mixture of seeds can give your yard a constantly changing array of colors.

When you go to buy the seeds from your local florist or nursery, you might be able to find a custom seed mixture for your area. This takes the really tough research part out of the job. Usually these blends are optimized for the local climate, and do great jobs of having flowers always grow in your yard. If one of these isn’t available, you can ask the employees what they think would be a good mixture. They should be happy to help you put something together which will be optimal for whatever you desire.

You should definitely use mulch when planting perennials. This will reduce the overall amount of work you have to do, by reducing the amount of weeds and increasing the water retention. Bark or pine needles work great, I have found, and depending on the rest of your yard you might have them on hand at no charge. As for fertilizer, you should use it sparingly once your plants start to come to life.

When you actually go to plant the seeds, you should put them in small, separate clumps according to the directions. This is because they tend to spread out, and if you have too many too close together then they will end up doing nothing but choking each other out. As you plant them, throw in a little bit of extremely weak fertilizer. In no time at all you should start to see flowers blooming up.

Choosing the Best Plants for your Garden

Posted by Viva La Vida on Kamis, 25 Desember 2014 Label:
Many times we buy plants on impulse then find there is nowhere in the garden that really suits them. Before buying plants carefully examine your garden to see how much sun and shade it gets, whether the soil is well drained or waterlogged and whether your aspect is sheltered or windswept. You'll then be equipped to go and buy the best plants for your situation; shade-loving plants for the sheltered areas, sun-lovers for the warm spots, drought-resistant plants for the parched areas which may be either sunny or shaded, and swamp plants for the poorly-drained parts. 

But wait! Test your soil first, to determine the pH level of your soil and what kind of nutrients you need to add, if any. Is the soil acid or alkaline? Most plants prefer soil that is slightly acidic, but there are some that must have alkaline soil to grow.  You can alter the soil's pH level, but it's much easier to simply plant for the soil you have.

Choosing the Best Plants for your Garden

Now you are ready to plant. Well - almost. Will you plant in groups or singly? If you buy 'one of everything' your garden may seem rather spotty. Group plantings are organised, harmonious and you can vary the color for interest. 

Before planting out, place your chosen plants around the garden bed in their pots to see how they will look. Re-arrange them until you are satisfied. Grouping plants in sets of threes or fives usually looks better than planting in groups of even numbers. Be sure that you have an interesting combination of colors and textures of plants. Tall plants should go to the back, or the centre if your garden will be viewed equally from all sides. Try to keep your plants away from trees. The roots of trees are fiercely competitive and will steal all the nutrients and moisture meant for your flowers.

The right color scheme is one way to maintain the harmony in your garden. Imagine the color of the flowers when they are in bloom. Some colors may clash with others, but can still be planted side-by-side if they have a different blooming season. Foliage color is also important. Many flower plants have silver, grey or purplish foliage that is just as attractive as the flower. This means that they are still attractive well past the blooming season and so have added value.

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